How many teeths should your chainring have when racing XC?

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Eps 1: How many teeths should your chainring have when racing XC?

Choosing the right MTB

It took a long time for my brother and me to find the right chainring size.
If you are going to change the chainring you will need to change the chain if you go for a larger chainring, but if smaller eventually you'll need to remove some links.
Theresia's Blog post is about finding the right chainring size for your one-by equipped mountainbike.

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The advantage of having only one chainring is that your bike requires only one rear derailleur and shifter, which means it looks lighter and cleaner with fewer parts and cables. Today, virtually every bicycle in the world, even the most expensive, has one or two chainrings, but not all.
Where most chainrings have teeth of the same thickness, a chainring dedicated to the work of an individual can widen the other teeth to adjust the distance of the chain, helping the single track to stay better in the ring and avoid resistance and bounce. When replacing chainrings or intentionally trying to change your gearbox, be sure to check how many teeth are present and replace the existing ring with another chainring, even if both chainrings have about the same number of teeth. Chainrings with fewer teeth feel easier to pedal and chainrings with more teeth feel more difficult.
Examples of "wide" and "narrow" teeth are shown in the figure on the right, with the width of the teeth at the top and the length of each tooth in front.
I have seen many individual front chainrings, but my personal favorite is Wolf Tooth Cycling because they produce really good products in many sizes and configurations. If you choose a single front ring, this is the best approach: a smaller chainring ensures better wheel clearance. I see a lot of riders who are biased in climbing - ring sizes. So if your ride consists mainly of long, steep climbs, such as mountain biking or cross-country skiing, then it is probably a good idea to take the smaller ring.
A large gearbox, on the other hand, provides a "tongue-in-gear," i.e. the amount of chain that drives (and thus drives) the teeth of the gearbox. In a ring where the chain runs from cog to cog, about half a tooth of each cog is in contact with your chain at all times.
The teeth are thicker and higher than previous XTR rings, so the chain engages earlier and the ideal single-speed drivetrain, where chain tension is maintained by dropouts, is unlikely to be an issue. Shimano maintains the standard 11 teeth for smaller wheels, while SRAM uses 10 teeth per small wheel, but requires a dedicated hub driver and does not operate a cassette with existing 10-speed freewheel bodies. The operator can choose between a single- or twin-tooth chain or an eccentric BB hub that retains the same number of teeth as a standard 12 teeth per wheel.
Shimano also behaves with a hook-shaped leading edge, which supposedly offers a better chain hold, but is also more expensive than the usual 12 teeth per wheel.
The company says that you don't need this chain tool for trail riding, but maybe for enduro racing. For classic road bikes 53 t or larger chainrings are used, for bicycles that prefer leisure or sporty riding, 50 t or larger chainrings can be used as part of a hill-friendly compact chain set.
Most modern racing bikes have a front mechanism responsible for changing tasks, and while most mountain bikes have multiple front chainrings, they can be moved to a medium-sized single ring. The idea is that by dispensing with the front-mechanical assembly, you can save a lot of weight and at the same time dismantle the nimble moving parts of the bicycle.
In some cases it is generally recommended to change the chainrings to get a comfortable gear ratio, but the other rings and wheels do not have the same gear ratios as the front and rear chainrings. A larger wheel (18 t) distributes the wear to more teeth than would be the case with a multi-gear bike, so take the larger ring. A tensioning mechanism can be installed to move the chain back and forth, reducing the wrapping of the chain. Most tensioners have springs fitted and work best on single-ring bikes such as mountain bikes and road bikes.
If you use stainless steel rings, the smaller ring (s) are in the middle of the ring and not on top of it. For aluminum rings you need a smaller size, but they are replaced more often than the larger ones.
There are a lot of oval chainrings because the slope is high enough to minimize deadspots in the pedal stroke. Round is the standard, but there are also oval, round and round - and - round chainrings in different sizes.
The shape of the teeth also varies, but 1x specific chainrings usually use a narrow or wide shaft profile to increase chain retention and reduce the likelihood of dropping the chain. The chainring size, which indicates the number of teeth on the chainring, can be between 26 t and 53 t, although I have noticed that it is rare for a chainring to be two teeth smaller. When I switched from a 27.5 to a 29-inch bike, I became two points smaller and was satisfied with the result.